Changing A String

So, you broke a string. That's OK. I have seen strings break a day after they have been put on and I've seen them last a decade or more. Strings can break due to age, heavy use of sharping levers, sharp edges on a bridge, tuning pin or eyelet, too heavy a gauge of string for the frequency required, damaging a string while installing it, overplaying or overdriving your harp, or quick changes in humidity and temperature. (See Diagram 1 and Diagram 2) Anyway, the first time you change a string it may seem difficult but it quickly becomes easier with practice.

1. Remove all parts of the broken string.

2. Select the proper replacement string. To do this, find the number of the string that is broken. Count from the shortest string (#1) to the broken string. Then look on the string chart that comes with your harp and select the string according to its number. [ If you have a Rees Harp, Click Here to go to our String Charts]. If you do not have a string chart for your harp call the harp maker and have them send a chart out to you. If the maker is out of business or otherwise unavailable you will need to take the broken string to someone who has calipers (music store, mechanic) and measure the diameter of your string. If it's a nylon wrapped string be sure to measure the core diameter and the diameter of the wrap. Then order a string from any of the harp string suppliers see address at the end of this article. All harp strings are custom made for each individual harp. Changing the diameter (gauge) or type of string to something other than what the luthier designed for your harp may invalidate your warranty or, worse yet, seriously damage your harp.

3. After selecting the string, it is time to install it.

a. If it is a monofilament, run it through the string hole of the soundboard, pushing it into the soundbox. Reach in the access hole with your hand and pull the string out the access hole enough to tie a knot in it. If the string is short you may want to put a loop on the other end so that it doesn't slip through the hole while you're tying the knot. This method is easier than trying to tie the knot first and then pushing the string through the hole from the inside out, since sometimes you can't see the string hole through the access hole. Tie the knot as shown in the Harp Knot Diagram. Be sure to use the extra piece of string as shown in the drawing on strings .036 or smaller to prevent the knot from being pulled through the hole under string tension. Some harp builders use large eyelets on all strings and you will have to use an extra string piece from middle C on up. After the knot has been tied, pull the string through and seat the knot firmly against the midrib.

b. If your string is a wrapped string the knot is already tied for you and all you have to do is thread it through the string hole from the inside out. With a nylon wrapped string, be careful that you do not damage it by forcing it through the hole. If the thin nylon wrapping breaks the string is ruined.

4. Now that the knot is seated against the midrib, grab the other end of the string and pull it all the way up to the tuning pin. It is important that you have at least three wraps around the tuning pin when you are done. This will help distribute the stress on the string. Less than three wraps on the tuning pin will cause stress at the point the string is inserted in the tuning pin and it may break the string in a very short time. To assure three or more wraps, pull the string 1 1/2 inches past the tuning pin and cut it. If the string is of large diameter, you should cut it with a knife and at an angle so that a clean (non-flattened) end will fit through the hole of the tuning pin. Never cut a nylon wrapped string on the wrapping because it will unwind and the string will be ruined. The only part that can be trimmed is the plain core that sticks out at the end. If the wrapping extends into the area you need to cut, you have acquired the wrong length of string. Wrapped strings are ordered by their vibrating length (the distance between the soundboard and the bridge pin). When the string is made, the maker will add additional core length to allow for the part that goes through and wraps around the tuning pin.

5. If your harp has zither or piano style tuning pins you need to turn the pin counter clockwise about four full turns before inserting the string into the hole. Zither pins have threads and if you don't back the pins out they may eventually screw the pin too deep into the neck. Wrap the string around the pin as shown in Diagram 4. This step is not necessary with tapered pins.

6. Next, place the end of the string through the hole of the tuning pin so that about 1/4 inch of the string sticks out on the other side of the hole. Turn the tuning pin and wrap the string in the same direction as the neighboring pins. Try to line up the windings so that the string drops as straight as possible in line with the bridge. (See Diagram 5)

7. Bring the string up to pitch slowly. Turning too quickly may break it. The new string will go out of tune quickly for awhile until it stretches and the knot tightens up.

8. We purchase our strings from:

Robinson's Harp Shop

PO Box 161

Mt. Laguna, CA 91948-0161

619/473-8556

 

 

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